What better way to mark my 100th review in the network with the dram that was my absolute favorite well before I even started reviewing. I had a Lagavulin 12 at a bar years ago and it was just nothing like what I’d had before. Based on the timing of when I had it, I assume it was the 2015 release, which I tracked down a bottle of. I decided to do this one side by side with the release from the following year, which was branded as a 200th anniversary edition. I’d only had that one glass before so have no experience with how the batches differed, and since this is a cask strength release and not quite so standard as the 8 year old, I’m expecting a bit of difference if nothing else due to the slight difference in ABV.
Lagavulin 12 2015, Islay Single Malt, 56.8% ABV
Minutia: Matured for 12 years in ex-Bourbon casks, bottled in 2015 at cask strength. Enjoyed neat in a glencairn side by side with the 2016 release.
Color: Deep Gold, 0.8.
Nose: Big smoky brine, smoked fish, but musty. There’s a meaty feel to it but it’s indistinct.
Taste: Pepper/heat, peat, salt.
Finish: Amping up smoke, salt. Long, salt last the most. The finish is so strong and long, doing this as a side by side I had to wait quite a bit while cleansing my palate to minimize influence of my perception of the 2015.
This is just really well put together, and nearly exactly what I want in a whisky. I understand why I found it so compelling that first time and I’ll want at least a bottle of this on hand all the time. I’ve heard a lot about batch variation, but unless it strays very, very far away from this it’s a definite win. If this was all Lagavulin made, they would be just as if not more infamous.
Score: 94
Lagavulin 12 2016 200th, Islay Single Malt, 57.7% ABV
Minutia: Matured for 12 years in ex-Bourbon casks, bottled in 2016 at cask strength. Enjoyed neat in a glencairn side by side with the 2015 release.
Color: Deep Gold, 0.8.
Nose: Smoke, brine, smoked seafood. Bright woody note with a meaty feel (more salt-cured than smoke cured as the 2015 was).
Taste: Vegetal peat, pepper (arrives later than the immediate punch of the 2015), salt.
Finish: Pepper, smoked meat, very sharp.
This is similarly excellent to the 2015. Subtle differences, but it’s by and large the same expression. It makes sense why this is the only Diageo special release that has been the same every year, there’s just no reason to play around with it.
Score: 93
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